Genoa (Genova), Italy
Port of Genoa
Our trip to Genoa was not planned. Which gave us very little time to do our research and plan out the day. This turned out to be one of the best days of the trip as we had no expectations of what to see. Which allowed us to be pleasantly surprised.
Genoa is located in the Liguria region on the Northwest coast of Italy. It is the largest port in Italy and as such Genoa is first a working industrial port and secondly a tourist destination.
The first thing that strikes you about the city is that it has a certain edginess to it. The streets run from dirty to filthy, with a smallish tourist area that seems to be scrubbed clean. And when I say dirty I do not mean that there is a lot of litter about. Between the air pollution and the crowded streets of the old city there really is no way to keep the buildings and streets pristine. So there is not attempt to do so. The other interesting/annoying thing about the city is that every other person seems to have a dog (usually a large one) which is allowed to defecate in the streets. No attempt is made to clean up after all these dogs so watch your step.
Piazza Ducale
OK, so there is the bad news. Overwhelming all this grittiness is the fact that people still live and work in this city occupying buildings that have been in use since the 14th, 15th , and 16th centuries. On top of that Genoa is the only city on the trip where I saw every generation, from 80′s to infants going about their business, mostly walking, from piazza to piazza, shopping, eating, and socializing along the way. In short it is a real city that really works.
Tourist Stuff
Via di San Lorenzo
A good place to start your visit is to walk slowly along the Via di San Lorenzo from the port all the way up to the Piazza Ducale and on to the Porta Soprana. This is the area swept clean for the tourists every night. It also gives a glimpse into the history of Genoa and the current flow of the city.
The area closest to the port is filled with shops catering to the local trade including the cheese and cured meat shops, chocolate shops, and of course the bread and pastry shops.
Walking further along you will actually begin walking back in history as the old part of the city will pass by. For you foodies make sure you read the daily specials boards at each restaurant. These restaurants mostly cater to the tourists. But it is a good way to get a price comparison when I tell you to go off the beaten path later.
You will encounter two of the most important churches in Genoa, San Lorenzo, noted for its alternating black and white marble facade, and Chiesa del Gesu, noted for its collection of 16th century artwork including two by Rubens. You will also encounter the Piazza Ducale which is the working headquarters of the local government.
Porta Soprana
As you keep walking you will eventually walk through the Porta Soprana. Genoa was actually an important city state. In order to protect the city a wall was built which of course included some gates for the entry of people and commerce. The Porta Soprana was the largest of the gates and is still in use as the entrance to the old city of Genoa. A good part of the old wall is still remaining and you can follow its path for quite a ways. The other important part of the Porta Soprana gate is that just outside you can see the birthplace of Christopher Columbus. There really is not that much to see as the building is largely crumbling and covered in vines. But, hey you’re a tourist, go take a picture.
That’s pretty much it for the “must see” picture taking part of Genoa; pretty shop windows, two major churches, the old wall and the main gate, and a picture in front of the Columbus family homestead. With any luck it is time for lunch. For additional wandering we found that the old city area to the South of Porta Soprana and the Via di San Lorenzo is largely residential. It is pretty, but not a lot of shopping or restaurants. The area to the North and Northwest of the tourist area is chock full of restaurants, shops, and people on motorcycles driving erratically. We recommend you try to find the Piazza di San Matteo. It is a good map reading exercise and you will find all sorts of cool places along the way.
Food Stuff
Side Street Genoa
Like most cities in Europe you cannot walk more than ten paces in Genoa without stubbing your toe on another restaurant. I am overwhelmed by the size and shape of many of these cafes and bars. Just when you thought a space could be too small to serve food you turn the corner and see two tables crammed into a tiny space surrounded by people happily enjoying a plate of pasta and a glass of wine.
For the food part I highly recommend you get off the tourist streets highlighted in my tourist portion of commentary. Most places offer pretty much the same thing; a primi piatti (first course) of pasta, a secondi piatti (second course) of meat or fish, a glass of house wine, and dessert all at a fixed price. In the tourist areas this will run you 18 to 25 euros. In the areas frequented by the locals this will cost you 11 to 14 euros. And there will not be a lot of foot traffic or motorcycles running by your table as you eat.
Ironically the offerings are very similar to what you would see on a menu in an Italian restaurant in the United States. Pesto is the preferred local sauce. Lasagna al pesto seems to be the hands down favorite. And fish is definitely more prominent than chicken or beef as a second course.
Service is pleasant if not terribly efficient. The waiters seem to have an inability to write anything down. You will have to ask for water a couple of times. And if they ask you, “frizzate?”, it is not referring to your hair curling in the moist sea air, they want to know if you want your water with bubbles or not.
My recommendation is that you wander around, see where the locals are eating, and grab a table. They will ask you if you are there for “mangare” which means you are there to eat, before they will bring out a menu. Many of these cafes do double as a coffee bar or wine bar. And don’t worry about the language. You will figure it out, or someone at the next table will step in and help you out.
Hidden Shopping
The areas to the North and Northwest of the central tourist area are not only full of great places to eat but also comprise the shopping area for the city. You can find just about anything located in small specialty shops. My observation was that locally crafted leather goods were actually a good value. There are also a lot of specialty clothing stores. You do have to be careful as some of the stores are actually offering goods made in China.
The only other limitation you need to be aware of is that most of the specialty shops close for a couple of hours at lunch time. So my suggestion is to take a long lunch and shop when the stores reopen.
Safety
I think the city is relatively safe for walking, shopping, and eating. Most of the streets and alleys in the old city are well traveled during the day. The fact that most of the elderly people I saw feel comfortable walking alone during the day is an indication that crime is probably not a big problem.
The port area on the other hand is really a “no go” area unless you are with a group of people. Like any major city this is a gathering area for the homeless, unemployed immigrants, and the occasional drug user. The aquarium and the maritime museum are located in the port area. If you visit do so with caution.