The Busy Gourmand

Plaza de Mayo, Buenos Aires

I just finished reading a brief history of the Argentine Republic. I am glad I waited until I returned from my trip to Buenos Aires. It is a story of competing interests fighting for control of a country full of natural resources. These conflicts resulted in wars, mostly internal, for a greater part of the nation’s history. And when democracy reared its head it was more often than not implemented through bribery and strong-arm tactics. Although nominally independent since May 1810 (hence Plaza de Mayo), the country gained its full independence from Spain in July 1816 (hence Avenida 9 de Julio). Ever since it has followed on a halting, bumpy path through periods of great prosperity mixed with even longer periods of poverty. Only since 1983 has there been a return to nominal democracy. Only since 1990 has the military been removed from influencing politics.

You would think that after a history like that everyone would be burned out and cynical. Nothing could be further from the truth. The best way to describe Buenos Aires is to compare it closely to the New York City of the late 1970’s and early 1980’s. There is quite a bit of crumbling infrastructure mixed with booming high rise development. Much like the New York of the 70’s and early 80’s, the subways run efficiently. But the air conditioning does not work. The trains running to the suburbs are covered with graffiti and yet they seem to run close to on time. The streets are a little bit dirty. But not so dirty that a little bit of rain cannot clean them. And the food and wine and cultural venues all operate with a little bit of an edge to them with a kind of “here today, gone tomorrow” feel.

Retiro Station, Buenos Aires

When I lived in New York in the early 1980’s there was something a little bit naughty about being there. I get that same feeling in Buenos Aires. And when you look at a Porteňo (a resident of Buenos Aires) in the eye there is a subliminal communication that says, “Don’t tell anyone what we are getting away with down here. Let’s just keep it to ourselves.” New York is not as much fun as it once was in the 1980’s. Buenos Aires fills in that gap nicely.

I am going to reveal the little secret that is Buenos Aires. It is like experiencing Europe (think Barcelona) at about one-quarter of the cost. You would be hard pressed to spend $70 at a five star restaurant, where as in Europe you would have to take out a second mortgage to do so. If you want, you can stay at an expensive hotel. But why not choose the more unconventional route and stay in a rented apartment for about $500 per week (or less if you are alright with a studio).

You can experience a cuisine which is largely influenced by waves of Italian, French, Spanish and German immigration. Regardless of the cuisine I do not think you can have a bad meal in Buenos Aires (unless you eat at McDonald’s). And if your tastes run to the bovine end of the food spectrum I cannot think of a finer place to chew on a steak washed down with a bottle of vintage Malbec, for which you paid less than $10 for either one.

Plaza Seeber, Buenos Aires

While my interests tend to be sated with food and wine, if you enjoy some culture with your food there are an array of notable museums, whole neighborhoods of interesting architecture, and enough gardens and parks to calm even the most rattled urban nerves. The city is also a good jumping off point for Tigre, the summer retreat for many Portenos, Iguazu Falls, one of the largest waterfalls in the world bridging Argentina, Uruguay, and Brazil, and the wine region of Mendoza, where most of the Argentine wines are produced.

Rowing Club, Tigre

My interests were decidedly urban on my recent trip, so I am going to focus on Buenos Aires with a short foray into Tigre. Although mostly about food and wine I will also cover information about the various neighborhoods and provide you with some good walking tours if your interests are more pedestrian (no pejorative intended).