The Busy Gourmand

On my recent trip to Italy I decided that I wanted to try new recipes, of course, but I also wanted to figure out the Italian versions of recipes that have migrated to the United States.  The answer in most cases was that the United States version was pretty close to the original.  However, the Italian preparation was usually simpler than what passes for the real thing in the United States.  In many cases we combine recipes in the United States.  An all’ arrabbiata sauce is often combined with ingredients from all’ amatriciana sauce and called the same thing in the United States.  Not so in Italy.

The other thing that struck me is that herbs are chopped to a minuscule size.  I always thought that the part of the Italian movie when a house guests arrives and is handed a mezzaluna to chop the parsley was an artifice for keeping an on-screen conversation going.  Obviously not so.  Parsley and basil are chopped to such a fine consistency so as to add a subtle flavor to each bite of food.  Which totally upsets my idea that chopping size is largely irrelevant in most recipes.

My surprise with the penne arrabbiata from Genoa included two things; the amount of spicy heat and the addition of a sprinkling of whole olives over the top of the pasta.  I think the heat is pretty universal for this recipe in Italy.  The olives I think were a flourish applied by the chef in this particular restaurant.

Without much further ado here is my take on real penne arrabbiata.

• 1  28 oz can diced tomatoes
• 1/2 medium yellow onion, finely diced
• 2 cloves garlic finely diced or put through a garlic press
• 3 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped basil
• 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
• 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes (this is the authentic amount reduce if necessary)
• 1 pound penne rigate
• kosher salt
• freshly ground black pepper

Put a large pot of water on to boil making sure to add a good amount of kosher salt.

In a large sauce pan or dutch oven heat the olive oil over medium high heat.  Add the onion, reduce the heat slightly, and allow the onion to slowly wilt, keeping the heat low enough so the onions do not brown.  This should take about 5 to 7 minutes.  Add the garlic, the red pepper flakes, the parsley and the basil to the pan and allow to saute for about two more minutes. Add the tomatoes to the pan, bring to a simmer, reduce the heat and allow to simmer for 20 to 30 minutes.

Meanwhile cook the pasta according to the instructions on the package or until al dente.  Taste the tomato sauce and add salt and pepper as needed.  Combine the pasta and the tomato sauce in a large bowl.  Serve the pasta in four portions topping with grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese.

About The Olives

The penne arrabbiata in the picture includes some nicoise type olives (or I am sure the Italian equivalent).  This lent a savory flavor to the dish which contrasted nicely with the heat of the red pepper flakes.  The olives are not authentic in terms of the recipe.  But if you want to add olives or capers to this dish it certainly would not ruin the flavor.