The Busy Gourmand

When I started the blog I decided that I would only offer reviews of restaurants that I really liked. It makes life a lot simpler. You do not make anybody angry. And if people know this they know that you recommend the place whole heartedly.

Friends have started to note the dearth of Dallas restaurants in the review section. “Surely there are restaurants that you enjoy,” is the typical comment. Yes there are many restaurants that I enjoy, ranging from simple diners to haute cuisine establishments. It is just that when you get to travel a lot and you have a chance to dine in Barcelona, Rome, Naples, London, Frankfurt, in Europe not to mention New York City, Chicago and Los Angeles in the United States, I just find that there is something lacking in the dining experience here. I cannot put my finger on it for some reason.

Last night I decided I needed to break out of this funk and I went to Mi Piaci in North Dallas, about a 10 minute drive from our house. I have been driving past this place since I moved to Dallas 13 years ago. The reviews have always been impressive. It always seems to be busy.

Sitting there last night I finally figured out why most of the Dallas restaurants I would recommend would all be recommended with reservations. There is way too much emphasis on the ambiance, the show involved in the meal, and way too little effort spent on service and preparing the meal. There is nothing more frustrating than eating a dish with a perfectly executed Bolognese sauce, and the pasta is overcooked. The calamari fritti is perfectly cooked, literally melt-in-your-mouth good, and there are no dishes or a serving utensil left with it so you have to eat it like it is a communal bowl of porridge. And I guess there must be a premium on marinara sauce in Dallas every time it is served on the side it comes in a thimble-size portion.

So here is what I have decided to do. When I review a restaurant I am not going to pull any punches. If it is truly not worth going to it will not appear on the blog. If it has some redeeming qualities and I would give it a second try I will post a review. I think that is fair compromise. So first up, Mi Piaci, with reservations.

La Fogata - San Antonio, TX

Having traveled extensively throughout the world I always stay away from restaurants in the United States that boldly state that they serve authentic cuisine from a certain region of the world.  If they have to state it then I find that the only authentic thing about the place is the delusion that they actually serve something authentic.  But most Americans fall for these authentic labels mostly because they do not get the opportunity to travel and see for themselves.  Suddenly Olive Garden and Macaroni Grill become the basis for judging the quality of Italian food.  Which drives me nutty.

It is my experience that authentic cuisines share certain characteristics.  First, and foremost, the ingredients used are 100% fresh.  When you enter the kitchen of an American restaurant the largest space is devoted to refrigeration.  In a foreign restaurant the largest space is devoted to the cooktop.  There is an expectation in other countries that they will acquire their ingredients fresh daily so why waste space on refrigeration. 

The next most important characteristic is that fresh food is acquired locally.  Which means that menus are seasonal and that menus will reflect the local ingredients available.  This has changed somewhat with the availability of refrigerated transportation.  But regional cuisines have changed very little even with these new transportation alternatives. 

The third most important characteristic is that you can taste all the ingredients.  There is absolutely no attempt to trick the palette by adding gobs of salt (except as a preservative) or some generic sauce so that everything tastes the same.  The point of the food is to taste exactly what you are eating.  Many Americans I find complain about how bland the food is when they travel when in fact they have been eating so much salty food they cannot taste for real, fresh ingredients.

Once in awhile though you do run into something very authentic.  Something that does not try to be Americanized.  It is unabashedly serving food from the region it portrays.  I ran into one in San Antonio last week called La Fogata (the bonfire).  It is strictly cuisine from Northern Mexico.  There were no nachos on the menu (although if you asked for them I am sure they would oblige).  The ingredients were fresh (they even make their own refried beans).  And the service was just like in Mexico; efficient, low key, and friendly.  If you want some authentic Mexican cuisine in Texas you may have to go all the way to San Antonio.  But if you find yourself there skip the river walk one night and get some real Mexican food.  My review and contact information are here.

I travel throughout the United States for work.  This includes backwaters and megalopolises.  When I have the time I try to check out restaurant recommendations from the locals.  Theses recommendations span a wide assortment of venues offering food; diners, bars, bowling alleys, and restaurants.  If you keep an open mind you can enjoy a variety of menus remembering that you are not likely to be served pate at the bowling alley, or a hamburger and fries at the local french restaurant.  I am also a big believer in judging food based on the quality received for the money spent.  A plate of Texas Torpedoes (breaded and deep fried jalapenos filled with string cheese) and a glass of beer costing $8 can be rated higher than a filet mignon and a glass of red wine for $50 if the value received is higher than what you paid.  I recently tried the filet mignon and glass of wine combination for $50 and was so disappointed I would never go back to that place again.

There are two restaurants I would like to start with.  One I have visited over and over again, and one that I have visited only once but it sticks in my memory like a first kiss.  Ca’ Bianca in Santa Rosa, California is one that I have visited repeatedly.  There is nothing terribly remarkable about its menu.  I think I am drawn to the ambiance of the restaurant, the relative simplicity of the food, and the variety on the wine list.  The quality of the food is consistently good.  I guess you could call this old reliable.  I have more on Ca’ Bianca here.

My favorite one-night-stand with a restaurant occurred in Portland, Oregon at a gem called Veritable Quandary.  As improbable as the name sounds this is one of those places that you need to keep on your radar.  It includes a menu which is thoughtfully prepared daily, a friendly and understated ambiance, and a very good wine list including many local wines that are hard to come by in other parts of the country.  I have unfortunately not had a chance to return to Portland.  But when I do I will eat there again.  You can find more about Veritable Quandary here.